Haebangchon Diaries

School, work, relationships — everyone has something that they want to free themselves from. How about taking all this built-up stress and releasing it all in the neighborhood closest to the sky? This June, leave these worries behind and join the Sungkyun Times (SKT) in Haebangchon, where the true feeling of liberation awaits Kingos

Liberated in Haebangchon

-Last of Seoul City’s Moon Villages

Haebangchon, a town overlapping Seoul City’s Yongsan 2-ga and 1-ga town districts, directly translates to “Liberation Village.” As can be inferred from its name, this neighborhood initially served as a residential area for Koreans returning from abroad after the Japanese colonial period and North Korean refugees after the Korean War. At the time, such settlements were often built in elevated areas where the moon could be seen up close as rent prices were relatively low, earning them the nickname “moon village.” As years passed, the once-populated Haebangchon was eventually left sparse by residents moving away for financial opportunities in other areas of the city. However, with the dawn of the new millennium, residents from nearby areas, such as Itaewon, started to move to Haebangchon. This was to flee from rising rental costs caused by gentrification, but it simultaneously brought life back to the area. Still characterized by its hilly alleyways, Haebangchon now bears an uncanny charm, allowing visitors to traverse the seamless blend of the past and present. Thanks to its location at the foot of Namsan Mountain, the area also boasts a close-up view of the iconic landmark, the N Seoul Tower, making it a popular destination for chasing views.

-How to Visit

From the Humanities and Social Sciences Campus (HSSC), Kingos can get on the 143 bus at the Myeongnyun 3-ga Sungkyunkwan Univ. Entrance bus stop (01003). After getting off at the Lotte Dept. Store (02140), transfer to the 202 bus, and reach the Huam-dong Bus Terminal stop (03204). This route takes around 50 minutes. Kingos departing from the Natural Sciences Campus (NSC) can take Line 1 from the nearby Sungkyunkwan Univ. Station to the Namyeong Station. From there, get on the Yongsan 02 bus at the Namyeong Station (03111) and get off at the Huamdong Last Stop (03582). This trip takes an hour and a half. 

Intertwining of the Past and Present

-A Page of History

The first destination that Kingos can explore is the 108 Stairway, one of the last remaining traces of Haebangchon’s dark past. During the Japanese occupation, this staircase functioned as a pathway up to the Gyeongseong Hoguk Shrine, which was built to house fallen Japanese soldiers. However, only the 108 Stairway remains and is used to travel to and from the main Haebangchon area. Instead of going up the stairs, Kingos may choose to ride the inclined elevator in between the staircase that was constructed to aid the elderly residents. Afterward, Kingos can immerse themselves in a peaceful neighborhood of residential homes and small momand-pop stores. Tucked away within its hilly streets is an independent bookshop, Storage Book and Film. The space is intimate and full of books that are casually yet intricately stacked on top of one another. Among the carefully curated selection of bestsellers, indie books, and unique postcards, one can pick up a title that speaks to the heart and get lost within the pages of the author’s written past. This can be a wonderful opportunity to find a book that best represents the moment, as it will forever become a memory to cherish. 

-Discovering the Meaning of Being Present

The next stop in Kingos’ walk is an exhibition, THE WALL. Located in what was once the gallery director’s newlywed home, the place was renovated to showcase pieces that symbolize significant moments in his life. This project was brought to life after the director was inspired by the Turkish author Orhan Pamuk, who built a museum of installations representing different events and characters in his novel, The Museum of Innocence. Before visiting, Kingos must make a reservation through the Naver Booking system and pay the ticket price of \9,700. At the entrance, a classical melody and a complimentary cup of tea will welcome the guests.

To begin the exhibition, one can proceed to the starting point and open the audiovisual guide. While observing countless memorabilia, artworks, and spaces representative of the director’s experiences and mental state at the time, visitors will naturally find themselves deep in thought. Gaining a newfound appreciation for human life, Kingos will then head to the next spot, Nuldam Space café. Open from noon to 8 p.m. every day, this café offers customers the space to write a letter to their future selves. Accompanied by the letter-filled wall that holds the hopes and regrets of thousands, explore the echoes that fill up one’s mind and transfer them to paper. Finally, melt the wax seal over the envelope to enclose a time capsule of the fleeting present. 

A Future Brighter than the Skyline

-Embodiment of Newtro

As the mid-day heat slowly turns into an afternoon breeze, head to the Shinheung Art Market. Although it had a different name in the past, this market served as a center of commercial activity in the ‘70s and ‘80s when the area was home to over 300 textile factories. However, rapid industrialization left a lingering effect, causing their impact to trickle down to the market and leaving the vibrant hub dull and quiet. In recent years, there have been efforts to restore the market and regain its lively atmosphere. Now, the harmonious clashes between the worn-down building backdrop and modern spaces have made it a hot spot among the younger generation that enjoys reimagining retro trends with fresh takes.

While exploring the Shinheung Art Market, Kingos may visit Com Com Arcade, which has several arcade games that give the younger population a fun opportunity to experience the childhood of the people before them. Afterward, Kingos can proceed to the market exit, where a dessert café, Le Montblanc, is located nearby. This adorable café is primarily known for its cakes in the shape of yarn balls and knitted sweaters — an artistic ode to the market’s past, available in various flavors for the youth to enjoy. 

-A Meal with a Side of Seoul City

With a heart full of nostalgia and a desire for reinvention, it is time for Kingos to satisfy their appetites. There is no better way to enjoy a meal in Haebangchon than alongside a panoramic view of the Seoul City skyline. Grab a seat at The 100 Food Truck’s terrace area while admiring the ever-changing hues of the summer sky at sunset. Relish the savory perfection of their signature American Cheeseburger. Then, as the city lights awaken one by one, take a sip of soda and raise a toast to the brightly lit N Seoul Tower.

Next, head down to the Haebangchon area for drinks at Gyeongridangil Wine Bar. Taste the masterfully crafted glass of cocktail and fall deep into conversation, drowning out the sounds of clinking glasses and softly playing music in the background. At this moment, Kingos will realize that the feeling of liberation may not be so far away after all. Rather, it is found in brief moments nestled among the hustle and bustle of daily life and within the shared laughter that a good space and company can provide. 

Wrapping up the semester, take a moment away from the monotony of the long commutes and the pressures of life. With the vast cityscape right before one’s eyes, witness concerns slowly disappear, just like the tiny glimmers of light that shape it. Kingos, it is time to turn the first page of one’s liberation diaries at Haebangchon and discover what it truly means to be free.