Korean Markets: Past Meets Present

According to the Small Enterprise and Market Service in July this year, there are currently around 24,000 vacant stores in traditional markets nationwide. This marks a troubling increase of over 7,000 vacant stores compared to six years ago. Given this dire situation, the Sungkyun Times (SKT) aims to examine the challenges that traditional markets in Korea are facing and explore potential strategies to revitalize them, preserving their unique atmosphere and vibrancy for future generations.

A Taste of Korea’s Market Culture

-Where Tradition Lives

The traditional market is a marketplace that has existed since ancient times, where local products are sold directly to residents at affordable prices. Originating as periodic markets held every three or five days, they have evolved into permanent markets where small merchants often form cooperatives. The earliest recorded traditional market in Korea, dating back to 490 AD in Gyeongju City during King Soji’s reign, served as a hub for commerce and regional news exchange. During the Japanese colonial era, traditional markets became centers for political gatherings, such as those for the independence movement. Following Korea’s liberation, the establishment of markets like Dongdaemun and Namdaemun marked the golden age of traditional markets. One unique aspect of Korean traditional markets is their culture of jeong, a sense of warmth and community spirit. Merchants often called out to attract customers, haggled over prices, and gave away extra items for free, a practice known as deom, which naturally became embedded in the market culture. It is also common to see merchants offering advice on cooking methods. In these bustling markets, the generous spirit and warm atmosphere provide a nostalgic experience that keeps customers coming back, even in a harsh, fast-paced environment.

-Bites and Delights of the Market

Traditional markets offer a wide range of products, particularly fresh ingredients like vegetables and seafood. Their selection often surpasses that of supermarkets, making it easy to find fresh and affordable ingredients. In an interview with the SKT, 74-year-old Gong Yeong-ja, a regular at Sinpo International Market, shared, “I love going there because I can buy a wide variety of seafood at such affordable prices.” While supermarkets tend to have limited selections of fresh ingredients due to the need for stable supply chains, traditional markets often carry unique items that are either not available or only sparsely stocked in larger stores. These markets even offer rare local ingredients, such as bellflower buds, which are hard to find in large retail chains due to unpredictable demand. Traditional markets can provide these rare items through smaller, more flexible distribution networks. Additionally, traditional markets are also key places to experience Korea’s rich food culture firsthand. They offer local foods that embody the unique culture and flavors of each region. For instance, at Malbau Market in Gwangju City, visitors can try regional specialties like duck stew. Various stalls throughout these markets showcase a wide array of local delicacies, allowing visitors to enjoy different foods on-site. As more people seek out these specialties, certain dishes often become iconic representations of their markets, such as dakgangjeong, sweet and spicy fried chicken, which can be found at Gangneung Jungang Market.

The Decline of Traditional Markets

-The Dimming Warmth

Traditional markets, once praised for their generous spirit and warmth, are now facing growing criticism due to overcharging issues, leading to a decline in domestic patronage. A notable example is a segment from KBS’s 1 Night 2 Days that aired last June. It featured a vendor who charged ￦70,000 for 1.5 kg of old-fashioned sweets — four times the usual price — causing public outrage. The situation is even more severe for foreign visitors. Many tourists, who are probably unfamiliar with local prices and language, report being misled and overcharged. Vendors exploit the lack of local price knowledge among foreign tourists to inflate their profits. A common tactic used is the “mixing” method, where vendors combine different items into a single order and charge for two servings. Visitors also frequently encounter inflated prices relative to portion sizes and are pressured to pay in cash. Kirana, an Indonesian tourist who visited Gwangjang Market, told the SKT, “I had high hopes of experiencing Korean hospitality, but I was shocked by how expensive the food was compared to the portion size.” These overcharging practices not only affect pricing but also jeopardize overall trust in traditional markets. If these issues are not addressed, they could impact long-term tourist inflow and damage Korea’s image.

-Missing Generations Amongst the Stalls

Traditional markets are usually cherished by older generations. However, younger people often view these markets as outdated and unfamiliar. According to a report from the Gyeonggi Province Market Agency last year, 64.3% of traditional market visitors were in their 50s or older, while those in their 20s and younger made up only 5.4%. The absence of younger visitors has diminished the vitality of traditional markets and raised concerns about their long-term viability. A major factor contributing to this decline is the significant shift in Korea’s retail landscape. Supermarkets began to replace traditional markets in the mid-1990s, and more recently, the rise of online shopping has further transformed consumer habits. Traditional markets have struggled to compete with the convenience offered by supermarkets and online retailers, failing to attract younger consumers. In response to this crisis, governments have introduced various revitalization policies since the early 2000s. These efforts have included modernizing facilities with weather protection and improving parking. Yet, despite substantial government investment, these measures have only achieved limited success. The core issue has been that upgrading infrastructure alone was insufficient to alter the perceptions of younger consumers.

New Directions for Market Renewal

-Tightening Market Controls

To effectively address the issue of overcharging foreign customers, vendors need to recognize the gravity of the problem and commit to meaningful improvements. Vendors must understand that even minor actions motivated by short-term gains can have serious long-term consequences for neighboring businesses and Korea’s national reputation. However, relying solely on vendors’ self-regulation is inadequate. The government must also take proactive steps by implementing and enforcing relevant policies. For starters, the price labeling system, which is mandatory in other sectors, should also be extended to traditional markets. Clear price labeling will improve price transparency, prevent overcharging, and foster trust among foreign tourists. Additionally, the government should conduct regular monitoring and surprise inspections to ensure compliance with price labeling regulations. To enhance oversight, a mystery shopper system could be introduced, where foreign evaluators pose as customers to assess their experience. This approach is already used by the Jongno District Traffic Administration to tackle overcharging by taxis for foreign tourists and could be effectively applied to traditional markets. Implementing this system could not only address ongoing overcharging issues but also identify practical improvements to enhance overall service quality.

-Capturing Youth Interest

To attract the younger generation — crucial to revitalizing traditional markets — it is essential to foster a positive perception of these markets from an early age. This can be accomplished by consistently and naturally exposing children to traditional markets. For instance, markets in Paris offer student programs to explore local produce and learn about its origins and production from vendors. Such early exposure helps young people appreciate the value of traditional markets, which can ultimately help expand their customer base. Moreover, attracting young people involves more than just modernizing facilities; it requires emphasizing the unique aspects of traditional markets. Unlike supermarkets or online shopping, traditional markets offer “experiential content”, providing opportunities to engage directly with local culture and traditions. To leverage this, markets should introduce unique and engaging activities for younger visitors. This could involve workshops on traditional foods or live performances by local artists. Lee Bo-ram, a university student, shared in an interview with the SKT, “If traditional markets offered diverse experiential activities, I would be excited to visit them.” By implementing these strategies, traditional markets can attract younger audiences and pave the way for their successful revitalization.

As the saying goes, “To truly understand a culture, visit its markets.” Traditional markets are more than just places to buy goods — they are cultural epicenters and vital spaces for community interaction. In Korea, these markets breathe with history and tradition, creating a living link between past and present. Preserving this cultural heritage requires a balance of respect for tradition and adaptation to modern needs. By blending the old with the new, we can revitalize these spaces so that they continue to thrive, serving as a bridge between generations.